Ardmore Traditional Cask

Ardmore Traditional Cask

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9/10 (Single Malt notation)

I have said it in the past and will say it again: Speyside malts are not my favourites.  Being a peat-head I often find Speysiders too light and too sharp for the standard 10-12 years old bottles.  Not being chill-filtered and with its 46% alcohol volume, Ardmore Traditional Cask is an outsider in the region, almost a Highlander and that’s why I am very fond of it.  With no age statement on the bottle, it is very similar to Laphroaig’s Quarter Cask finishing method.  Traditional cask means smaller cask for the last part of maturation process (see Laphroaig Quarter Cask review). 

With its nice gold colour, I highly doubt there is any e150 (caramel) added only for looks. The nose is intense. First, the peat and phenols kicks in with some spices.  Then, citruses appear with some notes of white grapefruit and green pineapple.  After adding a few drops of water, some sweetness emerges with chocolate notes in the end.  The palate is far dryer and bitter. Oak is omnipresent. Adding water will loosen its edges and more vegetal and cereal notes will appear.  The finish is medium-long.

This is a spectacular full body whisky leaving oily tears in the glass.  The bottle, label and packaging are also flawless, nothing flashy as we like it.  Ardmore Traditional Cask is a great alternative to Talisker in terms of character.  Being one of the biggest distilleries in Scotland, only a very small part of the production goes for crafting single malts, the vast majority of the production goes directly into the blend of Teacher’s Highland Cream, a great old school blend with a very high content of malt (around 40%, unlike the most blends at around 20-30%).    

Johnnie Walker Green Label

Johnnie Walker Green Label

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9/10 (Blended Malt notation) 

Having brought up the subject of blends in my last post, I’m going to stay in near waters by reviewing the now discontinued Johnnie Walker Green Label.  It is a blended whisky, but not in the traditional sense where grain whiskies are added to malt whiskies.  Green Label is what used to be called a “vatted malt” or a “pure malt”, i.e. a whisky made only out of malt whiskies, no grain, no junk. Nowadays, the whisky  inteligencia is calling this “blended malt” or “Malt Blend”.  This whisky, which appeared only in 2004, is no longer produced by JW since the end of 2011 due to poor sales and the launch of a new range of products.  Sadly, it was the best JW product in the market and every whisky enthusiasts will say to it was far superior to the Gold and Blue Label.

Where the Gold Label is a whisky mainly crafted with some 15 to 18 years old Clyneslish, the Green Label is the result of blend of at least 15 years old whiskies from only four distilleries: Talisker, Caol Ila, Cragganmore and Linkwood.  Knowing this, the tasting is even more fun, one trying to identify each of the characteristics of those 4 malts.  Talisker is the most noticeable whisky in this blended malt giving it most of the colour, nose and palate.  This amber whisky is very maritime in its nose; the iodine of Talisker does not fool anyone.  Hints of caramel, menthol, cooked peaches and pears are the first impressions. After a while it develops some peat and camphor. The palate is also Taliskeresque, a salt-water burned toffee first impression is combine with fresh menthol and bourbon casks. The finish is medium-long.

Warm and fresh does not really goes together, but Green Label is feeling like this! Talisker and Caol Ila on the winter side and Cragganmore and Linkwood on the summer side.  I do have to say that I was expecting more character coming from Caol Ila, peat-wise,  but this may be due to the use of sweeter casks such muscatel casks like in their 1995 Distillers Edition.  It is a shame that JW has stopped producing this whisky; however it as already became a collector’s bottle.  Since 2011, it has gained around 20$ in value in private sales.  As for myself, I bought a whole case just before it left the market! Hope to sell you a 150$ Green Label Bottle in the near future!

Some thoughts on blends

Some thoughts on blends

By Tommy Byrne

Many purists will flay me for this, but I recently had a change in attitude vis-à-vis blends in general. It is true that the majority of blends are produced industrially. It is also widely admitted that they generally do not offer as much complexity as the majority of single malts. Often too expensive, their prices are mainly based on a rigorous marketing strategy funded by millions of dollars. However, it is not right to say that blends are inferior products strictly aimed at a market of uninitiated consumers.

All blends are not intended to be drunk neat in a Glencairn glass. Raising your eyebrows when spotting someone pouring a J & B, Johnnie Walker Red Label or Ballantine’s on the rocks and then adding mineral water or cola is foolish, because these blends are specially designed for mixology. Now, doing the same with a Johnnie Walker Green Label or a Buchanan's Red Seal is pretty stupid and you may lecture that person on the do’s and don’ts of whisky etiquette!

How many times I wish I could have had a simple glass of Jameson’s or Johnnie Walker Black Label in a tumbler instead of a young  Speyside malt with too many hints of green fruit, such as a Balblair 2000. With the rising popularity of single malts since the mid-90s, it is important to stress that the majority of whisky production has declined in quality. Major brands of single malts are over playing the card of their glorious past in their marketing department, and many whiskies are no longer quite the same, the Macallan distillery is a perfect example illustrating this point. This gives blends an advantage with their impressive consistency toward single malts. After all, there is a time for everything. A time to enjoy complex single malts carefully matured in fine sherry casks, and a time for blends, on those evenings when you do not want to break your head analyzing the many subtleties of our drink.

Talisker 10 years old

Talisker 10 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9/10 (Single Malt notation)

My first encounter with Talisker, circa 2004, was not a memorable one. Presented to me as the best single malt according to many of my friends, I remember finding it drinkable, but way too salty and not really pleasant overall. At that time, I was getting acquainted with Speyside malts and tend to prefer lighter whiskies with a smoother character than Talisker. It finally took me 7 years to try another dram of this so called Classic Malt. Verdict: not too shabby!

I was quite impressed pouring my first dram; I didn’t expect such an amber coat for some 10 years aged malt. The nose is quite intense, peat is clearly present, but I generally found larger notes of camphor and frankincense. It also reveals some sherry cask notes. My first impressions in the palate were notes from the mash; the malted barley is more palpable than in Islay malts. This whisky has certain “toastiness”, “coaliness” and leathery feeling to it, but no elements overshadows another. Contrary to my apprehension, I didn’t find it too iodized. It’s a pretty balanced whisky with a strong and persistent finish.

Overall I was quite pleased with this 10 years expression of Talisker. For the reasons evoked above, I had such a huge preconception about this whisky; they proved to be wrong. This lonely single malt from the Island of Skye is definitely complex and enjoyable. Even if I found it too sharp at some point, it’s a good substitute to break my Islay malt routine.

Highland Park 18 years old

Highland Park 18 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9,2/10 (Single Malt notation)

It’s always fun to receive an unexpected package by priority mail, but it’s always better when the content is an unexpected whisky bottle! As a token of appreciation for personal support, a close friend recently sent me a bottle of the 18 years old expression of Highland Park. Always on the lookout for trying new products, I was quite pleased to receive this particular whisky I never had tasted before. Being a true Islay malt enthusiast, I too often tend to snob non-Islay Scotches and never get to expand my range as I should. Highland Park 18 reminded me that there are many other great products crafted outside of Islay.

Having slept a few years in Sherry casks, Highland Park 18 shows a nice amber blush. Aside from the light peatiness, there are many sweet notes in the nose: vanilla, crême brulée’s custard, Moroccan dates and weathers original candies. I found the palate toasty, leathery, coaly and more vegetal than the nose. The end is sustained and surprising, leaving a strong beer impression. Overall, Highland Park 18 is round, smooth and very well balanced. No flavour overshadows another.

As in any other regional quality products, the key element for the distillery’s success is the genuine understanding of their terroir. Being the most Nordic Scottish distillery (aside from Blackwood whom started operations in 2002), the cool climate plays a decisive role in the aging of the whiskies. Highland Park also uses to traditional method to dry the malt with its own aromatic peat that has quite distinct characteristics from Islay peat, being rich in heather sediments. The coaly feeling from the whisky actually comes from the malting process where heather ashes are mixed to the other ingredients. Having passed the test, I look forward in tasting the rest of Highland Park expressions.

Ardbeg Ten

Ardbeg Ten

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 1 L Duty Free Bottle  9/10 (Single Malt notation)
                      750 ml Regular Bottle 8,5/10 (Single Malt notation)

Having struggled for many years and having had to shut down a few times, the Ardbeg distillery is now on a good streak. Since its latest reopening and purchase by Glenmorangie in 1997, it has largely beneficiated from the global boom of single malts. Self-proclaimed “the smokiest and peatiest whisky in the world” and “the ultimate single Islay malt scotch whisky”, Ardbeg Ten has already won many awards, including the “Best Whisky in the World” by Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 3 years in a row.

I was surprised to find in this dark bottle such a pale whisky, very similar to a fino sherry. Visually and psychologically, I tend to prefer a deeper and warmer color, but it’s not the end of the world, let’s move on. Behind the first impressions of peat and smoke which are obviously very present in the nose, lays a nice aroma of French brioche and apple cider. Later during the tasting, some bitter chocolate note subtly appears. The palate is oaky, slightly sulphured, pungent (turnip and cabbage) and some aromas from the distillation process are quite present (leather). The finish is medium-long.

This was only the second time I tried Ardbeg Ten, and to my recollection, it was better the first time. When I opened it, the cork slightly popped like champagne bottle, which sounded a little strange. Tasting it, I found that some of its notable essences (medicinal) were missing. I will definitely try to get my hands on another bottle soon to re-evaluate it, but in the meantime, Laphroaig is still the best to me…and 35$ less!

ADDED on 8 april 2013

I have just tasted the same bottle and found my error.  You have to let this whisky breathe and open up for at least 10 minutes until tasting it.  The same whisky fully opened and exploded with all its expected flavours. However, at the same time, I tasted another bottle of the same Ardbeg Ten and proved to be weaker and never opened up even after adding water and leaving it to breathe for over 30 minutes.

Caol Ila 1995 Distillers Edition

Caol Ila 1995 Distillers’ Edition

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8/10 (Single Malt notation)

One thing I love about airport transits is checking out the novelty products in the single malt section at duty free shops. Aside from offering larger bottles, 1L instead of the traditional 0,7 -0,75L, you can usually find many products that are not sold in our Canadian state-owned liquor stores. When I saw the Caol Ila 1995 Distillers’ Edition bottle at Toronto Airport last June, I didn’t hesitate to buy it without knowing exactly what was so special about that product, after all, Caol Ila 12 is one of my favourite whisky. I usually never read the tasting notes on the box of the whisky, or at least I try not to remember them, to not alter my impressions when I do the tastings. There was something about this Distillers’ Edition I couldn’t get my finger on at first, the box than helped me finding out: a Moscatel cask finish.

A double maturing process often influences the final colour of a whisky. Not for this one, the Moscatel cask doesn’t change significantly the original pale straw colour of Caol Ila 12. The nose is sharp and alcoholised. While citrus and unripe fruits notes are present, the overall feeling I get is a sweet and smokiness, like a thick piece of honey/maple glazed smoked salmon. Peat is very light in the nose, but kicks in after the first sip. The palate is oaked and lightly sulphuric. Medium bodied, it leads to shorter finish than the original version of the whisky.

Not being too familiar with Moscatel wines (not to be confused with Spanish Moscatell), I might not have all the sufficient knowledge required to fully appreciate this whisky. I believe this Distillers’ Edition to be marketed as a curiosity product, definitely not for hard-core Islay malts aficionados. While to my sense, the Moscatel cask softly kills the most notable features of the Caol Ila 12, it might just be the best whisky to gently step into the world of Islay malts without beginning to strong, together with Bowmore 12. In the same train of thought, I feel it’s always more pleasurable to drink a lighter whisky that gains with a sweet cask finish, such as Bruichladdich or Glenmorangie, than a more complex one who may lose its essence.