Talisker 10 years old

Talisker 10 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9/10 (Single Malt notation)

My first encounter with Talisker, circa 2004, was not a memorable one. Presented to me as the best single malt according to many of my friends, I remember finding it drinkable, but way too salty and not really pleasant overall. At that time, I was getting acquainted with Speyside malts and tend to prefer lighter whiskies with a smoother character than Talisker. It finally took me 7 years to try another dram of this so called Classic Malt. Verdict: not too shabby!

I was quite impressed pouring my first dram; I didn’t expect such an amber coat for some 10 years aged malt. The nose is quite intense, peat is clearly present, but I generally found larger notes of camphor and frankincense. It also reveals some sherry cask notes. My first impressions in the palate were notes from the mash; the malted barley is more palpable than in Islay malts. This whisky has certain “toastiness”, “coaliness” and leathery feeling to it, but no elements overshadows another. Contrary to my apprehension, I didn’t find it too iodized. It’s a pretty balanced whisky with a strong and persistent finish.

Overall I was quite pleased with this 10 years expression of Talisker. For the reasons evoked above, I had such a huge preconception about this whisky; they proved to be wrong. This lonely single malt from the Island of Skye is definitely complex and enjoyable. Even if I found it too sharp at some point, it’s a good substitute to break my Islay malt routine.

Highland Park 18 years old

Highland Park 18 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9,2/10 (Single Malt notation)

It’s always fun to receive an unexpected package by priority mail, but it’s always better when the content is an unexpected whisky bottle! As a token of appreciation for personal support, a close friend recently sent me a bottle of the 18 years old expression of Highland Park. Always on the lookout for trying new products, I was quite pleased to receive this particular whisky I never had tasted before. Being a true Islay malt enthusiast, I too often tend to snob non-Islay Scotches and never get to expand my range as I should. Highland Park 18 reminded me that there are many other great products crafted outside of Islay.

Having slept a few years in Sherry casks, Highland Park 18 shows a nice amber blush. Aside from the light peatiness, there are many sweet notes in the nose: vanilla, crême brulée’s custard, Moroccan dates and weathers original candies. I found the palate toasty, leathery, coaly and more vegetal than the nose. The end is sustained and surprising, leaving a strong beer impression. Overall, Highland Park 18 is round, smooth and very well balanced. No flavour overshadows another.

As in any other regional quality products, the key element for the distillery’s success is the genuine understanding of their terroir. Being the most Nordic Scottish distillery (aside from Blackwood whom started operations in 2002), the cool climate plays a decisive role in the aging of the whiskies. Highland Park also uses to traditional method to dry the malt with its own aromatic peat that has quite distinct characteristics from Islay peat, being rich in heather sediments. The coaly feeling from the whisky actually comes from the malting process where heather ashes are mixed to the other ingredients. Having passed the test, I look forward in tasting the rest of Highland Park expressions.

Ardbeg Ten

Ardbeg Ten

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 1 L Duty Free Bottle  9/10 (Single Malt notation)
                      750 ml Regular Bottle 8,5/10 (Single Malt notation)

Having struggled for many years and having had to shut down a few times, the Ardbeg distillery is now on a good streak. Since its latest reopening and purchase by Glenmorangie in 1997, it has largely beneficiated from the global boom of single malts. Self-proclaimed “the smokiest and peatiest whisky in the world” and “the ultimate single Islay malt scotch whisky”, Ardbeg Ten has already won many awards, including the “Best Whisky in the World” by Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 3 years in a row.

I was surprised to find in this dark bottle such a pale whisky, very similar to a fino sherry. Visually and psychologically, I tend to prefer a deeper and warmer color, but it’s not the end of the world, let’s move on. Behind the first impressions of peat and smoke which are obviously very present in the nose, lays a nice aroma of French brioche and apple cider. Later during the tasting, some bitter chocolate note subtly appears. The palate is oaky, slightly sulphured, pungent (turnip and cabbage) and some aromas from the distillation process are quite present (leather). The finish is medium-long.

This was only the second time I tried Ardbeg Ten, and to my recollection, it was better the first time. When I opened it, the cork slightly popped like champagne bottle, which sounded a little strange. Tasting it, I found that some of its notable essences (medicinal) were missing. I will definitely try to get my hands on another bottle soon to re-evaluate it, but in the meantime, Laphroaig is still the best to me…and 35$ less!

ADDED on 8 april 2013

I have just tasted the same bottle and found my error.  You have to let this whisky breathe and open up for at least 10 minutes until tasting it.  The same whisky fully opened and exploded with all its expected flavours. However, at the same time, I tasted another bottle of the same Ardbeg Ten and proved to be weaker and never opened up even after adding water and leaving it to breathe for over 30 minutes.

Caol Ila 1995 Distillers Edition

Caol Ila 1995 Distillers’ Edition

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8/10 (Single Malt notation)

One thing I love about airport transits is checking out the novelty products in the single malt section at duty free shops. Aside from offering larger bottles, 1L instead of the traditional 0,7 -0,75L, you can usually find many products that are not sold in our Canadian state-owned liquor stores. When I saw the Caol Ila 1995 Distillers’ Edition bottle at Toronto Airport last June, I didn’t hesitate to buy it without knowing exactly what was so special about that product, after all, Caol Ila 12 is one of my favourite whisky. I usually never read the tasting notes on the box of the whisky, or at least I try not to remember them, to not alter my impressions when I do the tastings. There was something about this Distillers’ Edition I couldn’t get my finger on at first, the box than helped me finding out: a Moscatel cask finish.

A double maturing process often influences the final colour of a whisky. Not for this one, the Moscatel cask doesn’t change significantly the original pale straw colour of Caol Ila 12. The nose is sharp and alcoholised. While citrus and unripe fruits notes are present, the overall feeling I get is a sweet and smokiness, like a thick piece of honey/maple glazed smoked salmon. Peat is very light in the nose, but kicks in after the first sip. The palate is oaked and lightly sulphuric. Medium bodied, it leads to shorter finish than the original version of the whisky.

Not being too familiar with Moscatel wines (not to be confused with Spanish Moscatell), I might not have all the sufficient knowledge required to fully appreciate this whisky. I believe this Distillers’ Edition to be marketed as a curiosity product, definitely not for hard-core Islay malts aficionados. While to my sense, the Moscatel cask softly kills the most notable features of the Caol Ila 12, it might just be the best whisky to gently step into the world of Islay malts without beginning to strong, together with Bowmore 12. In the same train of thought, I feel it’s always more pleasurable to drink a lighter whisky that gains with a sweet cask finish, such as Bruichladdich or Glenmorangie, than a more complex one who may lose its essence.

Johnnie Walker Black Label

Johnnie Walker Black Label

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8/10 – (Blended whisky notation)

There are so many ways to view Johnnie Walker’s whiskies. It’s by far the best-selling brand of blends in the world and it has been like this for a while. In the beginning of the 20^th century, while Coca-Cola was sold only in 3 countries, Johnnie Walker was already available in roughly 95 of countries (counting former colonies who are nowadays sovereign States). If the Red Label (the start of the line product of JW) is to my sense a terrible blend only to be mixed in a cocktail, it can’t be compared to its older brother in the line, the Black Label (JWBL). Made with roughly 40 whiskies aged at least for 12 years, JWBL is fine blend with interesting features, even for single malt initiés, like me, who despises Chivas Regal 12.

JWBL is a dark gold leaning toward amber blend with a fresh and sharp nose. First come notes of raisins, dried plums and apples, then some peat and Jerez (Fino) aromas. The palate is quite rich and round. Slightly toasted, the blend presents itself with a hint of burned honey, bitter chocolate and some leather. It finishes smoothly, but could last longer.

As I once heard on a television interview with a key person at Johnnie Walker’s, even if they don’t admit it, almost all distillers in Scotland have a bottle of JWBL hidden in their liquor cabinet. This makes a lot of sense, while a certain snobbism exists in the single malt community; JWBL uses more robust and complex single malts than its competitors. Though it’s no secret that Cardhu 12 and Caol Ila 12 are strong components of the JWBL structure, I’m quite sure that other distillers are always interested in figuring out how their own single malt comes out in this emblematic blend.

Bowmore 12 years old

Bowmore 12 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8,5/10 (Single Malt notation)

I think I can speak for everyone, except the weird kids, when I say that we all had a moment (or many) in our youthful days to explore our parents’ liquor cabinet. The first whisky sip I stole was an old abandoned bottle of Cutty Sark, it was nasty and I’m sure it still tastes the same. A few years later I had my second rendezvous with whisky. Playing a board game in my friend’s basement, we decided to open a bottle of Bowmore. I kept such a bad memory of it, that it took me about 12 years to try it again. What’s my verdict today? It’s great! Well, let’s just say I grew up and so did my taste buds.

Bowmore 12 has a lovely clean and clear amber colour. Peaty but not overwhelming like other Islay malts, it gives us the chance to notice the oak. Unlike many critics, I do not find it iodized, its nose is rather fruity and spicy reminding me of ripe bananas, coco, flamed peaches, cinnamon, nutmeg, cocoa, vanilla, honey and pedro ximénez. Toasted oak is present in the palate; however I find it quite smooth and fresh. The light aroma of malted barley coats the mouth together with a distinctive copper feeling coming from the distillation process. The finish is medium-long and makes you think you’ve just had salted butter caramel candies.

What makes this whisky so different from the other Islay malts is undeniably the impression of a sherry cask finish. Another important aspect that single malts’ aficionado cherishes, is that Bowmore is one of the only 7 distilleries in Scotland still drying the malted barley with the traditional method, i.e. a man and a shovel. Nowadays, almost all distilleries use mechanical equipment. To my sense, the time consuming and more expensive method used by Bowmore is still valued today, if not, the new ultra-tech Japanese owners, the Suntory Group, would have changed it quite rapidly. Finally, for people wishing to experiment with Islay malts without starting with the more rugged ones, Bowmore 12 is the perfect pick.

Laphroaig Quarter Cask

Laphoaig Quarter Cask

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9/10 (Single Malt notation)

One thing we know for sure is that the people at Laproaig’s knows their market and continuously strives to please them with the elaboration of new products. Some distillers are experimenting with parallel lines of whiskies with sherry, port or wine casks finish in their “start of the line” product range. Likewise, Laproaig recently started to craft a new whisky with a second cask finish; however it did so respecting the core essence of the distillery. With no age statement, I asume that they take 8 years old normal casks and pass them in smaller casks (a quarter of the original casks size) for a 2 years nap. Laphroaig aimed at recreating the style of whisky produced 200 years ago, giving 30% more surface contact to the whisky. Back in the 19^th century, many distillers were using those quarter casks to ease up the transportation process of the whisky on mules’ back, hence giving it another finish for logistical reason.

Laphroaig Quarter Cask shares all the basic elements of the original 10 years version, but it takes them up a notch. I believe the main improvement to be a hint of fruitiness in the nose and a more vivid impression of oak in the palate. With its 48% alcohol graduation, I won’t judge anyone who wishes to add a drop of water to it, just to trim off the rugged edges.

Even if Laphroaig is the only whisky to have a Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales, making it the “official supplier” of single malt to the British monarchy, there’s no doubt that they care for their regular customers. Since 1994, they have extensively promoted their fan club called “Friends of Laphroaig (FOL)”. With over 450,000 FOL all over the world, the club does not only offer discounts on Laphroaig merchandizing goods, but also gives the possibility to buy exclusive whiskies not sold to the public. Being a proud FOL myself, I’m granted a lifetime lease of one square foot of Laphroaig land on the Island of Islay, as all other FOL. This may seem insignificant for many, but for a true fan, it really creates a sense of belonging to the great Laphroaig community.

Laphoaig 10 years old

Laphoaig 10 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8,8/10 (Single Malt notation)

A couple years ago, I was shopping for wine and whisky glasses with a friend. It was just at that time when I was getting more interested in the fascinating world of whisky, doing more readings on the subject, than tastings. Obviously, our conservation soon shifted from the glasses to Islay malts and how, according to my friend, Laphroaig was clearly standing in a different dimension. For him, it was pure gasoline. Good gasoline that is! I yet never had tasted it and couldn’t wait to get my hands on the legendary green bottle.

Even if you’re having this delicate “shy gold” nectar in your small studio apartment, Laphroaig will make you travel miles away. On one hand, your olfactory sense may suggest you’re somewhere breathing the saline air of Port Ellen next to an artisanal smoked herring facility. On the other hand, you may think you’re in an old hospital; medicinal aromas, solvents and camphor elements are clearly present. I find the palate smoother than expected from the nose. The earthy compounds derived from early stages of the malting process, takes overs the fishiness sent and leads to coffee beans roasting on the last embers of a smoky bonfire. Unlike Lagavulin fresh pipe tobacco impressions, the long finish of Laphroaig evokes more of cigarette smoke… without its bad implications!

There are very little shades of gray when it comes to Laphroaig, people usually love it or hate it. Unlike too many Speyside whiskies, Laphroaig takes a stand. It’s bold and rugged. Not cocky, but proud. It clearly advocates excess. Leaving no one indifferent, it’s unquestionably not a whisky for bland centrist. It’s the best value for money in the market to my own opinion. Together with its 2 years older Quarter Cask expression, Laphoaig 10 is my bottle of choice.

Lagavulin 16 years old

Lagavulin 16 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8,5/10 – Truly a Classic Malt

It was gray rainy day on the Saint-Laurent Golf course at l’Ile d’Orléans. The majestuous island, facing Quebec City and surrounded by the St. Lawrence Rivers might just have been the second best place in the world to get a first encounter with the 16^th years old version of Lagavulin. The warmth felt after the first sip soon made me forget about my lousy golf score. I did not know much about whisky back then, nevertheless I knew I was dealing with a Classic Malt in all of its splendour. Islay malts are widely known for their strong smoky and peaty character. For the neophytes, most of those whiskies are more or less placed in the same basket in comparison with non-Islay malts. Peat aside, Lagavulin has much more in common in its structure with Caol Ila, than Laphroaig, Ardbeg or even Bowmore.

Having quietly rested for 16 years in oak casks, this Lagavulin showcases a beautiful amber coat. Its nose is quite complex, the aromas made me reminisce of kalamata olives, trappist Belgium beer with lees, and fresh pipe tobacco. The peat, smoke and iodic elements of this whisky are not overwhelming; one may say it is better balanced than other Islay malts. Figuratively, it’s like taking a nice autumn walk in the woods, breathing the earthy paths at dusk, right after a long rainfall. These feelings and aromas evolve to the palate quite distinctly. The mushiness of the brewing process kicks in, making the core ingredients of the whisky more palpable. Very earthy and lightly sulphurized, close to charcoal, the flavours finally set in elegantly evoking burned toffee quite similar to the crust of a crème brulée. The end is sweet and smooth, but I do have to admit that I was expecting a longer finish for a whisky of that sumptuousness.

Even if Lagavulin 16 is a remarkable and well-crafted whisky, for many single malt aficionados like me, the wallet often tends to sadly dictate our picks. Being above the average price of a “start of the line” product for an Islay distillery, I believe that Caol Ila 12 gives you a better value for money than Lagavulin. Consequently, thank you Santa’s and birthday parties for letting us ask our loved ones this great gift!

Suntory Hibiki 17 years old

Suntory Hibiki 17 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 9,5/10 - Good and Unique (Blended whisky notation)

As many western whisky enthusiasts, I discovered the Suntory whisky brand a few years ago thanks to Bill Murray’s sells pitch in Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translations: “For relaxing times, make it Suntory time”. Having first tried the Yamazaki 12 years old Single Malt, I had huge expectations from the brand who made me forget it was not actually drinking a true scotch whisky.

Swirling in my very favourite Glencairn glass, the old gold fluid already let you know you are dealing with an almost full body whisky. Starting with some dried bananas and apricots nosing notes, honeydew and pineapple soon appear after the first sip. While the toasted barley and dry fruits blends in with balance to an insinuation of toffee in the palate, I found it a little too sharp for a 17 years old whisky. However, the addition of a drop of water will definitely make up for it. Reaching the finishing line, we know we are dealing with a fine-aged product, it last remarkably in the mouth, reminding you that you are drinking a hundred dollar whisky.

I’ve never been a strong fan of scotch-type blended whiskies; they always seem to lack of a true essence and hide their original personality. Why blend this sweet nectar with an obscure array of distilled spirits, when the angels delightfully take their shares in the untainted form? Then again, let’s be clear, the 17 years old version of Suntory Hibiki is a great product made with a thorough process by Japanese master blenders who have perfectly reproduced the style and character of a Speyside whisky to my sense. Being an unconditional devotee to Islay Malts, I think that a stronger hint of peat would really transform this whisky into what some have already branded it: “The best whisky in the world”.