Friday 19 August 2011

Bowmore 12 years old


Bowmore 12 years old

A review by Tommy Byrne

Overall rating: 8,5/10 (Single Malt notation)

I think I can speak for everyone, except the weird kids, when I say that we all had a moment (or many) in our youthful days to explore our parents’ liquor cabinet. The first whisky sip I stole was an old abandoned bottle of Cutty Sark, it was nasty and I’m sure it still tastes the same. A few years later I had my second rendezvous with whisky. Playing a board game in my friend’s basement, we decided to open a bottle of Bowmore. I kept such a bad memory of it, that it took me about 12 years to try it again. What’s my verdict today? It’s great! Well, let’s just say I grew up and so did my taste buds.

Bowmore 12 has a lovely clean and clear amber colour. Peaty but not overwhelming like other Islay malts, it gives us the chance to notice the oak. Unlike many critics, I do not find it iodized, its nose is rather fruity and spicy reminding me of ripe bananas, coco, flamed peaches, cinnamon, nutmeg, cocoa, vanilla, honey and pedro ximénez. Toasted oak is present in the palate; however I find it quite smooth and fresh. The light aroma of malted barley coats the mouth together with a distinctive copper feeling coming from the distillation process. The finish is medium-long and makes you think you’ve just had salted butter caramel candies.

What makes this whisky so different from the other Islay malts is undeniably the impression of a sherry cask finish. Another important aspect that single malts’ aficionado cherishes, is that Bowmore is one of the only 7 distilleries in Scotland still drying the malted barley with the traditional method, i.e. a man and a shovel. Nowadays, almost all distilleries use mechanical equipment. To my sense, the time consuming and more expensive method used by Bowmore is still valued today, if not, the new ultra-tech Japanese owners, the Suntory Group, would have changed it quite rapidly. Finally, for people wishing to experiment with Islay malts without starting with the more rugged ones, Bowmore 12 is the perfect pick.

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